Nrog lub ntuj, ntsuab, noj qab haus huv thiab nyab xeeb tshuaj pleev ib ce nrog cov nroj tsuag extracts attracting ntau thiab ntau xim, txoj kev loj hlob ntawm active tshuaj los ntawm cov nroj tsuag cov kev pab cuam thiab kev loj hlob ntawm ntshiab tej yam ntuj tso tshuaj pleev ib ce tau dhau los ua ib qho ntawm cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb tshaj plaws hauv kev tsim cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Txhawm rau rov txhim kho cov peev txheej cog qoob loo tsis yog tsuas yog txhawm rau kho keeb kwm, tab sis txhawm rau txhawb nqa Suav cov kab lis kev cai, kev koom ua ke cov kev xav ntawm cov tshuaj suav tshuaj, thiab siv cov thev naus laus zis niaj hnub los tsim cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tshiab ntawm cov nroj tsuag, txhawm rau txhim kho kev tshawb fawb thiab kev nyab xeeb. tshuaj pleev ib ce ntuj. Cov khoom siv tshuaj muab cov khoom siv ntsuab ntsuab. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov nroj tsuag rho tawm tau dav siv hauv tshuaj, khoom noj khoom haus, khoom noj khoom haus, dej haus, tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab lwm yam.
Cog Extracts(PE) yog hais txog cov nroj tsuag uas muaj cov roj ntsha me me thiab cov macromolecules ua lub cev tseem ceeb tsim rau lub hom phiaj ntawm kev sib cais thiab ntxuav ib lossis ntau cov khoom xyaw hauv cov khoom siv raw los ntawm lub cev, tshuaj lom neeg thiab tshuaj lom neeg. Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tsim nrog cov nroj tsuag rho tawm raws li cov khoom xyaw nquag muaj ntau qhov zoo piv nrog cov tshuaj pleev ib ce: nws kov yeej qhov tsis zoo ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas tso siab rau cov tshuaj hluavtaws, ua rau cov khoom muaj kev nyab xeeb; natural Cheebtsam yog yooj yim absorbed los ntawm daim tawv nqaij, ua rau cov khoom siv tau zoo thiab cov nyhuv tseem ceeb dua; lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb dua, thiab lwm yam.
Xaiv cov nroj tsuag zoo thiab ntxiv cov txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm cov nroj tsuag extract rau cov khoom kom zoo nkauj tuaj yeem ua rau nws cov txiaj ntsig zoo. Lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm cov nroj tsuag rho tawm hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yog: moisturizing, tiv thaiv kev laus, tshem tawm freckle, tiv thaiv tshav ntuj, tshuaj tua kab mob, thiab lwm yam, thiab cov nroj tsuag rho tawm yog ntsuab thiab nyab xeeb.
Moisturizing nyhuv
Cov khoom moisturizing nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yog tsuas yog nqa tawm nyob rau hauv ob txoj kev: ib tug yog ua tiav los ntawm cov dej-locking nyhuv ntawm kev tsim hydrogen bonds ntawm lub moisturizing tus neeg saib xyuas thiab dej molecules; Lwm qhov yog tias cov roj tsim ib zaj duab xis kaw rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Lub npe hu ua moisturizing tshuaj pleev ib ce yog cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas muaj cov khoom xyaw moisturizing los tswj cov dej noo ntawm stratum corneum los kho cov luster thiab elasticity ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Moisturizing tshuaj pleev ib ce feem ntau muab faib ua ob hom raws li lawv cov yam ntxwv: ib qho yog siv cov dej-tswj tshuaj uas tuaj yeem ua ke nrog cov dej noo ntawm daim tawv nqaij kom moisturize lub stratum corneum, hu ua moisturizing agents, xws li glycerin; lwm yam yog ib yam khoom uas yog insoluble nyob rau hauv dej, Ib txheej ntawm lubricating zaj duab xis yog tsim nyob rau saum npoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij, uas ua raws li ib tug foob los tiv thaiv cov dej tsis tau, yog li ntawd lub stratum corneum tswj ib tug npaum li cas ntawm noo noo, hu ua emollients los yog cov tshuaj, xws li petrolatum, roj, thiab waxes.
Muaj ob peb cov nroj tsuag hauv cov nroj tsuag uas muaj cov nyhuv hydrating thiab moisturizing, xws li aloe vera, seaweed, txiv ntseej, chamomile, thiab lwm yam, txhua tus muaj cov nyhuv moisturizing.
Anti-aging nyhuv
Nrog rau kev loj hlob ntawm lub hnub nyoog, daim tawv nqaij pib qhia ib tug laus lub xeev, uas feem ntau muaj xws li txo collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharide thiab lwm yam ntsiab lus nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij mus rau txawv degrees, cov hlab ntsha muab daim tawv nqaij atrophy, elasticity ntawm cov hlab ntsha. phab ntsa txo qis, thiab daim tawv nqaij epidermis maj mam thins. Bulging, subcutaneous rog txo, thiab cov tsos ntawm wrinkles, chloasma thiab hnub nyoog me ntsis.
Tam sim no, cov kev tshawb fawb yav dhau los ntawm qhov ua rau tib neeg kev laus tau sau cov ntsiab lus hauv qab no:
Ib qho yog qhov nce thiab kev laus ntawm cov dawb radicals. Dawb radicals yog atoms los yog molecules nrog unpaired electrons generated los ntawm homolysis ntawm covalent bonds. Lawv muaj qib siab ntawm cov tshuaj ua haujlwm thiab tau dhau los ua peroxidation nrog cov lipids tsis txaus. Lipid peroxide (LPO), thiab nws cov khoom kawg, malondialdehyde (MDA), tuaj yeem hnov mob nrog cov tshuaj feem ntau hauv cov cell nyob, ua rau txo qis biofilm permeability, kev puas tsuaj rau DNA molecules, thiab cell tuag lossis hloov pauv.
Qhov thib ob, UVB thiab UVA rays nyob rau hauv tshav ntuj tuaj yeem ua rau daim tawv nqaij photoaging. Ultraviolet hluav taws xob feem ntau ua rau tawv nqaij laus los ntawm cov txheej txheem hauv qab no: 1) kev puas tsuaj rau DNA; 2) kev sib txuas ntawm collagen; 3) txo cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob los ntawm inducing txoj kev inhibitory ntawm antigen-stimulated teb; 4) tiam ntawm heev reactive dawb radicals interacting nrog ntau yam intracellular qauv 5. ncaj qha inhibit qhov kev ua ntawm epidermal Langerhans hlwb, ua rau photoimmunosuppression thiab tsis muaj zog tiv thaiv kab mob ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Tsis tas li ntawd, tsis yog-enzymatic glycosylation, metabolic ntshawv siab, thiab matrix metalloproteinase laus kuj yuav cuam tshuam rau daim tawv nqaij laus.
Nroj tsuag rho tawm raws li ntuj elastase inhibitors tau ua ib qho kev tshawb fawb kub hauv xyoo tas los no, xws li Scutellaria baicalensis, Burnet, Morinda citrifolia noob, Moringa, Shuihe, Forsythia, Salvia, Angelica thiab lwm yam. Cov txiaj ntsig ntawm txoj kev tshawb fawb qhia tau hais tias: Salvia miltiorrhiza extract (ESM) tuaj yeem txhawb kev qhia ntawm filaggrin hauv tib neeg keratinocytes thiab AmoRe tawv nqaij, uas tuaj yeem txhim kho cov haujlwm ntawm epidermal sib txawv thiab dej, thiab ua lub luag haujlwm hauv kev tiv thaiv kev laus thiab moisturizing. ; los ntawm cov nroj tsuag uas tau txais txiaj ntsig Extract zoo los tiv thaiv dawb radical DPPH, thiab siv rau cov khoom tsim kom zoo nkauj, nrog cov txiaj ntsig zoo; Polygonum cuspidatum extract muaj qee yam inhibitory nyhuv ntawm elastase, yog li tiv thaiv kev laus thiab tiv thaiv wrinkle.
Freckle
Cov tawv nqaij xim txawv ntawm tib neeg lub cev feem ntau yog nyob ntawm cov ntsiab lus thiab kev faib tawm ntawm epidermal melanin, cov ntshav ncig ntawm lub dermis, thiab lub thickness ntawm stratum corneum. Kev tsaus ntuj ntawm daim tawv nqaij los yog tsim cov chaw tsaus yog feem ntau cuam tshuam los ntawm tsub zuj zuj ntawm melanin ntau, daim tawv nqaij oxidation, keratinocyte deposition, tsis zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij microcirculation, thiab tsub zuj zuj ntawm toxins nyob rau hauv lub cev.
Niaj hnub no, cov nyhuv ntawm freckle tshem tawm tsuas yog ua tiav los ntawm kev cuam tshuam rau kev tsim thiab kev loj hlob ntawm melanin. Ib qho yog tyrosinase inhibitor. Hauv kev hloov pauv ntawm tyrosine mus rau dopa thiab dopa rau dopaquinone, ob qho tib si yog catalyzed los ntawm tyrosinase, uas ncaj qha tswj kev pib thiab ceev ntawm melanin synthesis, thiab txiav txim siab seb cov kauj ruam tom ntej tuaj yeem mus ntxiv.
Thaum ntau yam ua rau tyrosinase nce nws cov haujlwm, melanin synthesis nce, thiab thaum tyrosinase kev ua haujlwm raug txwv, melanin synthesis txo. Cov kev tshawb fawb tau pom tias arbutin tuaj yeem cuam tshuam cov kev ua ntawm tyrosinase nyob rau hauv ib tug concentration ntau yam tsis muaj melanocyte toxicity, thaiv cov synthesis ntawm dopa, thiab yog li inhibit zus tau tej cov melanin. Cov kws tshawb fawb tau kawm txog cov tshuaj muaj nyob hauv cov tsov dub rhizomes thiab lawv cov teebmeem whitening, thaum ntsuas cov tawv nqaij khaus.
Cov txiaj ntsig kev tshawb fawb pom tau tias: ntawm 17 cov tshuaj sib cais (HLH-1～17), HLH-3 tuaj yeem cuam tshuam kev tsim ntawm melanin, thiaj li ua tiav cov nyhuv ntawm whitening, thiab cov extract muaj qis heev rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Ren Hongrong thiab al. tau ua pov thawj los ntawm kev sim uas cov tshuaj tsw qab lotus cawv extract muaj qhov cuam tshuam tseem ceeb ntawm kev tsim melanin. Raws li hom tshiab ntawm cov nroj tsuag-derived whitening tus neeg sawv cev, nws tuaj yeem muab sib xyaw rau hauv cov nplaum tsim nyog thiab tuaj yeem ua rau hauv kev tu tawv nqaij, tiv thaiv kev laus thiab tshem tawm freckle. Functional Cosmetics.
Kuj tseem muaj melanocyte cytotoxic tus neeg sawv cev, xws li endothelin antagonists pom nyob rau hauv cov nroj tsuag extracts, uas muaj peev xwm sib tw inhibit qhov khi ntawm endothelin rau melanocyte membrane receptors, inhibit qhov sib txawv thiab proliferation ntawm melanocytes, thiaj li mus inhibit ultraviolet hluav taws xob induces lub hom phiaj ntawm melanin. ntau lawm. Los ntawm kev sim ntawm tes, Frédéric Bonté et al. qhia tau hais tias tus tshiab Brassocattleya orchid extract tuaj yeem tiv thaiv kev loj hlob ntawm melanocytes. Ntxiv rau qhov tsim nyog cov tshuaj pleev ib ce muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij whitening thiab brightening. Zhang Mu et al. muab rho tawm thiab kawm suav tshuaj ntsuab xws li Scutellaria baicalensis, Polygonum cuspidatum thiab Burnet, thiab cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias lawv cov extracts tuaj yeem cuam tshuam cov cell proliferation mus rau qib sib txawv, cuam tshuam kev ua haujlwm ntawm intracellular tyrosinase, thiab txo qis intracellular melanin cov ntsiab lus, thiaj li ua tiav. cov nyhuv ntawm freckle whitening.
tiv thaiv tshav ntuj
Feem ntau hais lus, tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub uas feem ntau siv hauv tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub tshuaj pleev ib ce tau muab faib ua ob pawg: ib qho yog UV absorbers, uas yog cov organic tebchaw, xws li ketones; lwm yam yog UV shielding agents, uas yog, lub cev sunscreens, xws li TiO2, ZnO. Tab sis ob hom tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub no tuaj yeem ua rau tawv nqaij khaus, ua xua ntawm daim tawv nqaij, thiab txhaws ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Txawm li cas los xij, ntau cov nroj tsuag ntuj muaj cov txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm cov kab hluav taws xob ultraviolet, thiab tsis ncaj qha ntxiv dag zog rau lub hnub ci kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov khoom los ntawm kev txo cov hluav taws xob puas los ntawm ultraviolet rays rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Tsis tas li ntawd, cov khoom xyaw tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub nyob rau hauv cov nroj tsuag rho tawm muaj qhov zoo ntawm cov tawv nqaij tsawg dua, kev ruaj ntseg photochemical, kev nyab xeeb thiab kev ntseeg siab piv nrog cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv lub cev. Zheng Hongyan et al. xaiv peb lub ntuj cog extracts, cortex, resveratrol thiab arbutin, thiab kawm txog kev nyab xeeb thiab UVB thiab UVA tiv thaiv los ntawm lawv cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub tshuaj pleev ib ce los ntawm tib neeg kev sim. Cov txiaj ntsig kev tshawb fawb pom tau tias: qee cov nroj tsuag ntuj tso tawm pom zoo tiv thaiv UV. Kev taw qhia thiab lwm tus siv tartary buckwheat flavonoids ua cov ntaub ntawv raw los kawm txog cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub ntawm flavonoids. Txoj kev tshawb nrhiav pom tias daim ntawv thov ntawm flavonoids rau cov emulsions tiag tiag thiab sib xyaw nrog cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub lub cev thiab tshuaj lom neeg tau muab lub hauv paus rau kev siv tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub cog rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yav tom ntej.
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Post lub sij hawm: Lub Xya hli ntuj-12-2022